Category Archives: AT skiing

Rémy Lécluse, Glen Plake Score First Descent on Pointe de le Lune

Critical turns in big mountains; Plake doing what Plake does best.

“It was really fun. Every turn was different and I’m not lying, it really was perfect conditions. It was impeccable, it was perfect.” -Glen Plake

Will someone please tell Rémy Lécluse and Glen Plake how bad this pre-ski season sucks in Europe? These guys have clearly been left off the Negativeland email list or else they would have known better than to drive a couple hours south and pin a first descent (in November!) when they should have been hanging out in the bars whinging about not enough snow, or too many gorgeous autumn days, or the empty trails and rock routes, or the color of the sky, or pretty much anything, really.

Rémy Lécluse

But these two have been around long enough to know that good snow ain’t that hard to find if you just know where to look. On November 19th the two big-mountain ballers tapped the pristine southeast couloir of 3777m Pointe de la Lune (Punta Ceresole) on the Cresta Gastaldi of Gran Paradiso.

Glen Plake

Lécluse spotted the couloir while skiing in Val di Piantonetto. Believing that the strong foehn wind that had hammered Chamonix he contacted Plake who immediately said yes.

“People give me heck for being so enthusiastic about skiing but I think Rémy may have me beat. He’s always fired up to go do something on his skis. I mean I get excited but he’s like a little kid. It’s great to be around.” -Glen Plake

Remy Lecluse, Glen PlakeThe team chose an alternative approach to the classic Val d’Orco route, choosing instead to go in through Val Piantonetto where the road goes to 1917m. “Less walking, more skiing is our motto!”

Ivrea bvouac, Remy Lecluse

Rémy in the 60-year-old Bivacco Ivrea. "Sleeps 9 if they like each other very, very much."

Lécluse and Plake skinned up to Col del Becchi at 2989 meters, cutting trail through 20-30cm of powder before scoring nice powder turns down to the Bivacco Ivrea. “Powder, powder and more powder!”

Lécluse and Plake left the bivy the next morning at 7:00, were at the bottom of the couloir by 8:00 and on the summit at 9:30. Rémy reports the first chute is about 100-150 meters long, 45˚, and 2-to-4 meters wide.

The big powder field in the middle was around 30˚ and about 300 meters long.

The bottom section was around 500 vertical meters, ‘quite wide’, at “an average of 40-45˚ with some solid 50.”

Plake in the middle powder field.

The team skied the route in about half an hour, which includes the time it took to shoot photos.

“The run wasn’t that steep, mostly around 40˚-45˚ with some sections around 50˚, maybe a bit more. The big slope above the cliff  was especially beautiful. That’s where we found that special ambiance that you only get from steep skiing.” -Rémy Lécluse

Some downclimbing was needed to get through the last chimney before scoring “an amazing powder skiing party” back to the Ivrea. An hour of skinning took them back to Col del Becchi before they tucked in to the icing on the cake: hundreds of powder turns between snow mushrooms in perfect powder, then a last 100 meters of breakable crust back to the Rifugio Pontese.

Gran Paradiso Massif, Punta di Ceresole (3777m), southeast couloir. 600 meters, 40-45˚/50˚, 5.2, E3

Two days, 2000 meters of powder skiing, and a sweet first descent. In November. Would somebody please tell these guys how bad the snow sucks!

Rémy Lécluse, Glen Plake

Are we not men? Rémy Lécluse, Glen Plake

Rémy skis: Dynastar Mythic 178 (Rémy worked on design/testing)                            boots: Scarpa Maestrale                                                                                                         binders: Plum Guide                                                                                                              outerwear: Arc’teryx Atom jacket, Gamma trousers                                                        backpack: Arc’teryx Silo 30 pack                                                                                         hardware: Grivel Air-Tech carbon axes, Grivel Air-Tech crampons

Glen skis: Elan Himalaya 177 “My new favorite pair of skis – 95 underfoot and less than 1400 gms. It’s the big brother to the Elan Alaska that I helped design and which just won Ski of the Year from Ski Alper magazine.”                                 boots: Dalbello Virus Lite                                                                                                      binders: Plum Guide                                                                                                              outerwear: Salewa Glen Plake Choice (pants, jacket, down sweater, gloves)             backpack: Salewa Glen Plake Choice                                                                                  hardware: Salewa crampons “a hybrid I made using a steel front and aluminum heel.” Charlet Aztarex ice axe.                                                                                              eyewear: Julbo Explorer “everyone knows these are the best mountain sunglasses in the world, hands down.”                                                                               poles: Leki WC. “A little longer than nromal for touring and steeps. Fixed length, not adjustable!!! I don’t trust or use adjustable poles for steeps.”                                sleeping bag: “We didn’t know what we would find at the refuge so I took my new -8˚ Salewa bag. It’s light, under a kilo. Even though the bivouac ended up being fully equipped the bag was really cozy, it’s frikkin nice.”

Expedition Update: Andreas Fransson Skis Sajama – Highest Peak in Bolivia

“The worst climb-to-ski ratio I have ever done in my whole life.” -Andreas Fransson

OK, watching this video makes me feel a little better about the lack of snow in Chamonix. I mean hey, at least we’ve got great climbing weather and no blowing sand.

But despite the sandstorm and ghetto snow conditions, we’ve got to throw horns out to Andreas for climbing and skiing “6500-whatever-meter” Sajama, Bolivia’s highest Peak.

Bjarne Sahlen

So much for the summit dance...

And as far as adventures go, this is exactly what it’s all about: discovering new places, interacting with different cultures, learning a language, traveling with the locals (70+ hour bus ride!), seeing and trying new things. With all this as part of the package you don’t need perfect snow to make it all worth it. Keep charging, boys!

Chamonix’s Te Crew Off For a Hot Cuppa Alpine Altruism in India

Chamonix Te Crew

Satopanth, Garhwal Himalaya

Chamonix’s Te Crew has headed out for a two-month expedition to India. The team includes Alex Marchesseau, Florent Gex, Remi Peschier and Romain Aubrun.

Chamonix Te Crew

Alex Marchesseau

The team’s mission is two-fold, first of which is a ski and monoski descent of the 55˚ northwest arête of 7075m Satopanth in the Garhwal Himalaya. The expedition involves (got your Google Earth ready?) a 3-day approach from the village of Gangotri (3000m) up the Gangotri glacier, past Shivling to their base camp at 4800 meters. From there they will place Camp 1 at 5500m, C2 at 6000m and C3 at 6400m.

Chamonix Te Crew

Florent Gex

The second half of the expedition is to head south to the Mt Abu climbing school in Rajasthan with a load of climbing gear. Their goal is to contribute the gear and their efforts to the climbing school which helps underprivileged children from Mumbai’s suburbs.

After traveling in several third world countries, Te Crew is re-interpreting the idea of expeditions in third world countries and it is

Chamonix Te Crew

Remi Peschier

their plan to do their best to help improve living conditions in the countries that welcome them. Nice one, gents.

Satopanth is located in Gangotri National Park near the western border of Nepal. Apparently it’s the source of the Ganges river – cool.

Mount Abu (1722m) is in the Mount Abu Wildlife Sanctuary in southern Rajasthan about

Chamonix Te Crew

Romain Aubrun

100 km west of Udaipur. It is a highly-symbolic place where Hindus go to pray at the many temples.

Te Crew is an organization of young Chamoniards who are passionate about all things alpine. Their purpose is to help young people achieve their alpine objectives and to look beyond their cultural horizons.

Garhwal HimalayaThe crew plans to be back in Chamonix on November 7th. Follow their blog at http://www.suraksitayatra.blogspot.com/.

Shout out to Millet for their continued support of Te Crew.

***UPDATE*** Teaser Tuesday: Chamonix Adventure Film Festival 2011

climbing film

Corey Richards having an adventure in the film 'As It Happens'.

Wednesday, 24 August 9:00 p.m. 

***Free screening – Salle Olca, Les Houches  – 21:00***

Ever Last & The Love Letter – 4 + 14 min. “An insight into the life of Krissy Moehl, 2x UTMB women’s champion.”

As It Happens – 16 min. “Renan Ozturk & Cory Richards attempt to establish a new technical alpine route on 6,498m Tawoche in Nepal.”

On a Marché Sous le Pôle – “Eight explorers and a husky are dropped 60kms from the geographic North Pole, in the middle of the Arctic Ocean. Their aim is to make the first filmed report from below the ice shelf.”

Mo’ beta at www.ChamonixAdventureFilm.net.

Friday, 19 August 7:00 p.m.

Dark Side of the Lens – moody 7-minute surf film.

Life Cycles – 47 min. of amazing cinematography and mountain bikes

Arctic Speed – 10 min. Exploring the Polar Circle on skis and by speed riding.

Dream World – 8 min. Documentary on free-runner Jason Paul

The Wild Line – 20 min. Four speed riders, a mountain guide and a cameraman travel to China to attempt the first speed ride descent of 7546-metre Mustagh Ata.

Azadi Freedom – 27 min. This film takes a look at Kashmir in the wake of the violent militant insurgence of the 90s, and the current rise in tourism thanks to skiing.

Skateistan – 10 min. “Film telling the story of two young skateboarders and their search for escape from the brutalities of war through skating.”

The Argentine Project – 10 min. “Three friends taking a trip and hoping to create a film with one bike, two cameras, and a few words of Spanish.

Saturday, 20 August 7:00 p.m.

Panik in Baffin – 2 min. ***Chamonix Homegrown!*** ”Four girls head to Baffin Island in the Arctic Circle in April 2011 to ski couloirs and explore unknown territory.

Feel the Hill – 17 min. “The multiple disciplines of longboarding and the sense of freedom that comes with the sport.”

WildWater – 31 min. “A visually stunning feast for the senses… a new kind of adventure film – one where image, sound and ideas trump all else.”

Kilian’s Quest – 30 min. “Kilian meets his long-time hero and inspiration, Bruno Brunod, and travels to Greece to attempt a record on Mount Olympus

Climate of Change – 86 min. “In this rich and inspiring documentary, director Brian Hill takes us around the world to find the ordinary people taking action in the fight to save our environment.

Sunday, 21 August 7:00 p.m.

Solitaire- 15 min. Ski vid with Chamonix’s ‘American Dave’ Rosenbarger, JP Auclair, Will Cardamone, Johnny Collinson,  Jacqui Edgerly, Kip Garre, Elyse Saugstad.

Eastern Rises – 39 min. “An epic fly fishing journey to Russia’s remote Kamchatka Peninsula. What we found… big, beautiful, mouse-crushing native rainbow trout, super kudzha and bigfoot in Russia’s far, far east.

Second Nature – 14 min. Guys on longboards, blue suits and beards. “Winner: Best Extreme Sports Film at the 2009 Mammoth Film Festival! Winner: Best Short Film at the 2010 X-Dance Action Sports Film Festival. Winner: Best Sports Film at the 2010 Sonoma International Film Festival. Winner: Best Adventure Sport film at the 5 Point Film Festival in Colorado.”

Moonflower – 2 min. ***Chamonix homegrown!*** Teaser for Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker’s film of their ballsy ascent of the Moonflower Buttress on Mt. Hunter in Alaska.

Summit 4 Kids – 15 min. “Laura Bohleber, Marja Persson and Giulia Monego attempt to summit and ski three of the highest mountains in the Peruvian section of the Andes to raise money for disadvantaged children living in the Peruvian city of Cajamarca.

Vertical Sailing – 50 min. “Nico & Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto take us on their latest climbing and sailing adventure to Greenland in search of virgin big walls. Nine new routes on six big walls earned them a Piolet d’Or award.”

Ski Porn Smackdown: Sherpas Cinema vs Sweetgrass

Strong soundtrack, great skiing, outstanding cinematography. Kye Peterson, Mark Abma, Mike Douglas, Dana Flahr and others. All they’re missing is some Chamonix footy.

Same, same, same and same but this one’s got American Dave in it. And telemarking, and a horse.

Compare and contrast.